"Kyoto Kumihimo (braid)", a traditional craft designated by the Ministry of Economy, Trade and Industry. It is a technology and product that has its roots in Shosoin, Nara Todaiji Temple during the Asuka period, and has been widely used in daily life, such as Japanese clothes and accessories. "Woven fabric" is woven with warps and wefts, but braids are made by arranging 2 warps diagonally and assembling them. "Triaxial structure (Kumiori)" originates from the technique of "braiding" braids, and another straight warp is passed through the warps that intersect at an angle of diagonally 45 degrees. A product that is woven with complicated techniques.
Triaxial organization "Peacock Emperor" belt
The characteristics of the triaxial structure are that the woven fabric has a diagonal structure, so it does not loosen and is less likely to wrinkle, and the intricately crossed threads generate refraction of light, creating a unique luster. Only 2 "large ring looms" owned by Takumi in the world can create this triaxial structure. We talked to Koichiro Murokado about the background and manufacturing method of the triaxial organization.
A large circular loom of 2 units, which is the pride of Takumi. It was developed 60 years ago, but the trigger was to restore the oldest obi that remains in the Shosoin Treasure Hall with a modern obi width of about 30 cm or more. That was what I did. At that time, there were 6 large looms with a diameter of 5 m x height of 5 m , which were developed with reference to the Italian torsion lace loom. Only 2 units exist. Since it does not exist anywhere else, there are no repair specialists, and daily maintenance and troubleshooting are all done by our own craftsmen.
Large circular loom
The award-winning work "Peacock Emperor" of the triaxial organization started development about 2 years ago and succeeded in commercialization this year. The geometric pattern in the center is sandwiched between peacock feather-like patterns on both ends, and 1 woven fabrics contain 2 patterns. It is a woven fabric that does not see.
The production process takes longer to prepare than weaving. Ten bobbins of the same length are all wound around 480 bobbins, but if even one of them is loosened, all of them will be useless, so be careful and wind them hundreds of meters. This will take 3 weeks. By the way, the thread is 100% pure domestic silk. After that, the threads set on the loom are woven by four people in one day.
There are 480 bobbins per loom
The difficulty is that the loom is not controlled by a computer, so it is possible to deal with the state of silk thread that changes depending on the weather. Since diagonal weaving has a large friction when moving the thread, it is necessary to pay attention to static electricity especially in winter. Therefore, we chose Kameoka, which is famous for its fog even in Kyoto, as the production area, and weave it in a humid environment.
A bag that was originally woven from the fabric used for bags. As mentioned above, I started working on a triaxial organization to recreate the oldest obi in modern times, and now I am also making fabrics for Nishijin kimono. The design is decided by consulting with Mr. Muromon, Mr. Muromon's father, and the factory manager, and the color is adopted from the one dyed by Mr. Muromon.
The difficulty is that the triaxial structure using a large annular loom is produced only by skill in the world, so there is no specialist who can rely on it in case of trouble. We will not be able to procure parts, but we must maintain it and pass it on to future generations.
Title of work: Triaxial organization "Peacock Emperor"
Material: Pure domestic silk
Technique: Triaxial structure using a large annular loom